I'll remember 2 things about Lisdoonvarna.
First, the matchmaking festival. For 5 weeks every fall singles, and now couples, come to Lisdoonvarna to party and meet others. What started off as a way for farmers, after the crops were in, to bring their sons and daughters to a meet a mate, has morphed into a party for everyone. And the town plays it up.
Second was a breakfast that included porridge (oatmeal) served with Irish Whiskey or Bailey's.
Fortified, we set off to ride The Burren. It is treeless, almost plantless, limestone (remember the Cliffs of Moher?) scoured by glaciers with a few glacial erratics strewn about. It is said about TheBarren:
Not enough water to drown a man (lakes, rivers)
Not enough wood to hang one
Not enough earth to bury him.
Other highlights included our first chance to try out our rain gear (just a drizzle, but at 50 degrees it would have been better if it was sunny) and a visit to Stone Age tomb from 2500 BC. They found bones of 33 different bodies buried over a span of 800 or 900 years. It is the best preserved in Ireland.
Where we have cycled the last 2 days.
Tomorrow we visit the Aran Islands.
Trip pictures are archived at: https://photos.app.goo.gl/i3Wq9Epv9sqDXb5w6
Friday, May 10, 2019
Wednesday, May 8, 2019
Ireland Day 1 of biking - the Cliffs of Moher.
It was going to be a small group. A few people dropped out when it was time for the final payment, so we are 4 intrepid travelers and Wilma, our guide.
After a nights rest and "charging our batteries" (e-bikes for all of us) , we "saddled up", and set out.
Day 1
The seaside town of Lahinch and the Cliffs of Moher.
Lahinch is home to a world famous gold course - on the dunes next to the Atlantic. I was struck by how short the holes were, and how uneven the entire course. Nothing flat including the fairways. I suspect it is played entirely with irons, the challenge being to keep the ball from rolling the wrong way on every shot.
It is also one of the more popular surfing beaches in Ireland. Look hard and you may see a few hardy souls in wetsuits. It was a cold and cloudy day - maybe 52 or 53 degrees F.
The west coast of Ireland is old seabed, a limestone slab, that is lifted on the west. The Cliffs of Moher are the edge of that limestone slab. Dramatic, but those we saw in Wales in Pembrookshire are longer and more dramatic.
Tomorrow - The Burren.
Trip pictures are archived at: https://photos.app.goo.gl/i3Wq9Epv9sqDXb5w6
After a nights rest and "charging our batteries" (e-bikes for all of us) , we "saddled up", and set out.
Day 1
The seaside town of Lahinch and the Cliffs of Moher.
Lahinch is home to a world famous gold course - on the dunes next to the Atlantic. I was struck by how short the holes were, and how uneven the entire course. Nothing flat including the fairways. I suspect it is played entirely with irons, the challenge being to keep the ball from rolling the wrong way on every shot.
It is also one of the more popular surfing beaches in Ireland. Look hard and you may see a few hardy souls in wetsuits. It was a cold and cloudy day - maybe 52 or 53 degrees F.
The west coast of Ireland is old seabed, a limestone slab, that is lifted on the west. The Cliffs of Moher are the edge of that limestone slab. Dramatic, but those we saw in Wales in Pembrookshire are longer and more dramatic.
Tomorrow - The Burren.
Trip pictures are archived at: https://photos.app.goo.gl/i3Wq9Epv9sqDXb5w6
Tuesday, May 7, 2019
Boston to Ennis - short flight, big jet lag.
Flying to Ennis takes less time than Boston to Seattle. Which sounds like it should be a breeze....except the only direct flights leave Boston at 7:30 PM and arrive 6:30 AM local time (which is 1:30 AM Boston time).
So not only is departure too early, and the flight too short, to catch a nap on the plane, you arrive in Ireland just as the sun is coming up and then have to stay awake. A set up for a long first day, topped off with a painful fight to stay awake until at least 7 or 8PM. Tougher jet lag than our last trip to New Zealand.
We shuttled to the Hotel in Ennis and amazingly (compared to the US) were able to check into our room at 7:30 AM.
Ennis comes from the Irish word for "island". Like Montreal, Canada, Ennis was built on an island - in the River Fergus. Over time one branch filled in and now there is just the single river flowing through town.
We took a city tour the day of arrival. The major historical attraction is the Franciscan Friary built in the mid 1200's.
St. Patrick brought Catholicism to Ireland in around 600 AD. The island was Catholic until the 1500s when Henry VIII founded the Anglican Church and began actively persecuting catholics. Unrelated, but around the same time, the Irish Kings pledged fealty to him, Ireland became a part of England, and catholics second class citizens.
Unrest surfaced in the 1800s with the election of the first catholic to public office. Then 100 years later, in 1916, rebellion led to the founding of Ireland as an independent country. The central area of the old town has a monument to a local favorite son, Daniel O'Connell that first Catholic office holder.
So not only is departure too early, and the flight too short, to catch a nap on the plane, you arrive in Ireland just as the sun is coming up and then have to stay awake. A set up for a long first day, topped off with a painful fight to stay awake until at least 7 or 8PM. Tougher jet lag than our last trip to New Zealand.
We shuttled to the Hotel in Ennis and amazingly (compared to the US) were able to check into our room at 7:30 AM.
Ennis comes from the Irish word for "island". Like Montreal, Canada, Ennis was built on an island - in the River Fergus. Over time one branch filled in and now there is just the single river flowing through town.
We took a city tour the day of arrival. The major historical attraction is the Franciscan Friary built in the mid 1200's.
St. Patrick brought Catholicism to Ireland in around 600 AD. The island was Catholic until the 1500s when Henry VIII founded the Anglican Church and began actively persecuting catholics. Unrelated, but around the same time, the Irish Kings pledged fealty to him, Ireland became a part of England, and catholics second class citizens.
Unrest surfaced in the 1800s with the election of the first catholic to public office. Then 100 years later, in 1916, rebellion led to the founding of Ireland as an independent country. The central area of the old town has a monument to a local favorite son, Daniel O'Connell that first Catholic office holder.
We learned that the town has numerous boxing clubs - which fits with the Irish reputation as always enjoying a good brawl. We were told they revere Mohammed Ali who is said to have Irish ancestry. He was feted as hero when he visited in the late 1990s.
,
,
After getting a good night's got a sleep (12 hours for me), we took a walk outside of town to see the local country side.
Tomorrow, e-bikes!!
Trip pictures are archived at: https://photos.app.goo.gl/i3Wq9Epv9sqDXb5w6
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Trip pictures are archived at: https://photos.app.goo.gl/i3Wq9Epv9sqDXb5w6
Tuesday, April 30, 2019
Getting ready for Ireland
It is almost time. In 3 days Kath and I leave for 10 days of cycling on the west coast of the Emerald Isle.
Many of you have said "Send pictures". It's easiest to send them in a BLOG every couple days, putting the rest in a public Google photo album.
I'll send a link (via a bcc e-list to keep things private) when I post a new one. As I'm relying on my aging memory, my feelings won't be hurt if you send me a private email (rrafoth@gmail.com) and ask to have your name taken off the list.
Where are we going? On the west coast of Ireland, near Galway.
If you'd like more trip specifics: https://www.greenmarblecycletours.com/guided-cycling-tour-west-of-ireland/ We arrive in Shannon Saturday AM and Sunday is the first day of riding.
The weather is looking good, at least for the first few days, so we are hopeful that we can leave the rain gear in the luggage for at least part of the trip.
Where are we going? On the west coast of Ireland, near Galway.
If you'd like more trip specifics: https://www.greenmarblecycletours.com/guided-cycling-tour-west-of-ireland/ We arrive in Shannon Saturday AM and Sunday is the first day of riding.
The weather is looking good, at least for the first few days, so we are hopeful that we can leave the rain gear in the luggage for at least part of the trip.
We'll keep our eyes open for these pesky little men in green.
As we'll be cycling less traveled roads, I think chances are good. A website providing tips for leprechaun sightings suggested "...leprechauns live near country lanes and have often been spotted by cyclists."
Trip pictures will be archived at: https://photos.app.goo.gl/i3Wq9Epv9sqDXb5w6
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